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Creating Innovative Flavours and Perception

Creating Innovative Flavours and Perception

Thinking of a genius Chef Iacopo Frassi
at Four Seasons Hotel Tianjin
 
By Natasha J
 
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      浣滀负鍏ㄧ悆濂㈠崕閰掑簵琛屼笟鐨勭繕妤氾紝鍥涘閰掑簵鍚戞潵浠ュ叾浠や汉鎯婅壋涓斿薄鑾锋畩鑽g殑椁愰ギ浣撻獙闂诲悕锛屽湪鍏ㄧ悆鑼冨洿鍐呭叡鎷ユ湁瓒呰繃15闂寸背鍏舵灄鏄熺骇椁愬巺銆備簬2017骞村湪澶╂触寮涓氱殑澶╂触鍥涘閰掑簵鑹ソ鍦扮户鎵夸簡鍥涘閰掑簵鐨勯珮鍝佽川浼犵粺锛屾棤璁哄湪浣忓浣撻獙杩樻槸缇庨鎵撻犳柟闈㈤兘鍋氬埌浜嗚嚦鑷讳竴娴併

      澶╂触鍥涘閰掑簵鎺ㄥ嚭浜嗕簲闂存蹇靛悇寮傜殑椁愬巺鍙婇厭鍚э紝鐨嗙敱鍥介檯钁楀悕鐨凷PIN浜嬪姟鎵鍊惧姏璁捐锛屼护鏈湴瀹惧鍜屽浗闄呮梾琛岃呬滑鍦ㄦ椂灏氬埆鑷寸殑鐜涓韩鍙楃弽棣愮編棣斾互鍙婅创蹇冪殑鍥涘鏈嶅姟銆

      鍏朵腑锛屾剰鑽•鎰忓ぇ鍒╅鍘呬綅浜9灞傦紝鏄厭搴楃殑鏍囧織鎬ч鍘咃紝椁愬巺閲囩敤寮鏀惧紡鍘ㄦ埧姒傚康璁捐锛岃鏈夊彲灏嗚倝绫昏嚜鐒舵帓閰哥殑椋庡共鑲夋埧锛岀壒鑹查鍝佸寘鎷湴閬撹繘鍙g殑鎰忓紡鍐峰垏鑲夈佸悇寮忔湪鐐欑儰鑲夊拰鑷埗鎰忓ぇ鍒╂姭钀ㄧ瓑绛夈傛剰鑽•鎰忓ぇ鍒╅鍘呯敱鎷ユ湁鍥介檯绫冲叾鏋楅鍘呯粡楠岀殑涓诲帹Iacopo Frassi鍏堢敓涓荤悊锛屼粬鏇惧湪澶氬鍥介檯绫冲叾鏋楁槦绾ч鍘呭伐浣滐紝鏈夌潃涓板瘜鐨勬剰澶у埄鍙婃硶椁愭枡鐞嗙粡楠屻

      鍦ㄦ剰澶у埄鐨勭編椋熷湴鍥句笂锛屼綅浜庝腑閮ㄥ湴鍖虹殑鎵樻柉鍗$撼琚О涓“缇庨鍜岃憽钀勯厭涔嬮兘”锛屽北鍦板拰娴锋磱鍦板娍涓哄綋鍦版彁渚涗赴瀵屽鍏冪殑椋熸潗锛岃憽钀勩佹﹦姒勭妞嶄篃闈炲父鍑哄悕锛屼繚鐣欑潃鐙壒缁忓吀鐨勭児楗紶缁燂紝鏄洓浜ф剰澶у埄鍚嶅帹鐨勫湴鏂广侷acopo Frassi鍏堢敓姝f槸鐢熼暱浜庢墭鏂崱绾崇殑鑹抽槼涓嬶紝瀵圭編椋熸湁鐫鏃犻檺鐨勭儹鎯呭拰浼樺紓鐨勫ぉ璧嬨備粬鑷骞存椂鏈熶究鑰虫俊鐩煋锛屽鐑归オ浜х敓娣卞帤鐨勫叴瓒g埍濂斤紝鍦ㄧ粨鏉熷涓氬悗浠栬幏寰楀湪澶氬鎰忓ぇ鍒╄憲鍚嶅強绫冲叾鏋楅鍘呭伐浣滅殑鏈轰細銆傜幇鍦紝浠栨妸涔嬪墠鐨勫帹鑹哄績寰楀拰鐑归オ鑹烘湳甯﹀埌澶╂触鍥涘閰掑簵锛屼互瀛滃瓬涓嶅︾殑鐑儏鍜屽楂樻爣鍑嗙殑涓ユ牸瑕佹眰鎵撻犳剰鑽•鎰忓ぇ鍒╅鍘呬负绫冲叾鏋楃骇鍒殑椁愰ギ姘村噯锛屼负瀹惧婕旂粠鑷崇編闈炲嚒鐨勭児楗壓鏈紝鍛堜笂鎴栫函姝e湴閬撱佹垨鍒叿鍒涙剰鐨勬剰寮忕編棣旓紝甯﹂澶╂触鐨勬剰澶у埄椁愰ギ姘村钩鍒颁竴涓叏鏂扮殑澧冪晫銆

       Iacopo Frassi鍏堢敓琛ㄧず锛屼负浜嗘妸绫冲叾鏋楀搧璐ㄩ楗甫鍒板ぉ娲ワ紝浠栧姫鍔涘煿鍏昏嚜宸辩殑鍘ㄥ笀鍥㈤槦锛屽苟鍜屽ぇ瀹朵竴鍚屾垚闀裤傚湪鎰忚崯•鎰忓ぇ鍒╅鍘咃紝鏈鍙楁杩庣殑椁愬搧鏄湴閬撶殑鎰忓ぇ鍒╅潰銆侷acopo Frassi鍏堢敓甯屾湜涓哄ぉ娲ラ【瀹㈠甫鏉ユ洿澶氫紶缁熸剰澶у埄缇庡懗锛屽府鍔╁ぇ瀹朵簡瑙f剰澶у埄缇庨鏍规簮銆傞櫎浜嗘瘡澶╃殑鏃ュ父椁愰ギ锛孖acopo杩樻浘澶氭鍔╁姏瀹汉姹傚鎴愬姛銆備粬浼氫簨鍏堜簡瑙g敺澹眰濠氬璞$殑鍋忓ソ闇姹傦紝骞舵彁渚涘崄瓒虫儕鍠滅殑鑿滃搧锛屽苟甯姪瀹汉灏嗘垝鎸囬氳繃椁愮洏浼犻掋傚浜庤繖绫绘儏鍐碉紝浠栬闇瑕侀潪甯歌皑鎱庛傛瘯绔熻繖鏄埆浜轰汉鐢熺殑閲嶈鏃跺埢銆傛渶鍚庯紝鎻愬強鏈嶅姟杩囩殑鍚嶄汉锛屼粬璇翠互鍓嶆浘涓虹編鍥芥荤粺鍜屼袱浣嶈冻鐞冩槑鏄烣abio Cannavaro鍜孭ato鎻愪緵杩囬鐐广

      鏈潵锛屾剰鑽•鎰忓ぇ鍒╅鍘呬富鍘↖acopo Frassi鍏堢敓浼氱户缁皢浠栫殑涓板瘜鐑儏涓庡垱鎰忚祴浜堣彍鍝佸垱浣滐紝鍛堜笂姝e畻鍦伴亾鎴栭鍏峰垱鎰忕殑鎰忓紡浣宠偞銆傞厤浠ユ爣蹇楁х殑璐村績渚嶉鏈嶅姟锛屽ぉ娲ュ洓瀛i厭搴楁剰鑽•鎰忓ぇ鍒╅鍘咃紝鍊煎緱浣犵殑闈掔潗!
 
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Four Seasons Hotel Tianjin
 
Chef Iacopo Frassi’s culinary skills and innovative cooking methods are full of surprises. He has previously served at numerous Michelin starred restaurants and constantly looks for ways to spice up the usual offerings and bring an international gourmet experience to Tianjin.
 
He has prepared a culinary feast at Cielo Italian Restaurant, located at the 9th floor of Four Seasons Hotel Tianjin, to indulge food connoisseurs and treat guest to an extraordinary fine dining experience.
 
Cielo is an open-kitchen concept with a wood-fired pizza oven, and a spacious outdoor veranda – one of the Hotel’s “gardens in the sky” – and provides a unique dining space suspended above Tianjin’s bustling streetscape.
 
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You hailed from Tuscany which is a popular destination for culinary celebrities. Can you share with us how you started your journey?
 
My journey began at an early age of 19, when I finished culinary school in Tuscany. I left for Milan to work at a very famous Michelin starred restaurant known as Savini, inside the Grand Mall de Milano. Thereafter I worked at many renowned restaurants like Trussardi (2 Michelin stars), Hotel Pellicano (2 Michelin stars), Piccolo Principe where in my second year I was promoted to Sous Chef De Cuisine and the restaurant received its second Michelin star and Alain Ducasse (3 Michelin stars) at the Dorchester Hotel in London.
 
My story in China began 2 years ago when an executive chef invited me to the Four Seasons Hotel Tianjin. This is my first experience in Asia as well as Chef De Cuisine. 
 
What excites you most about cooking at Cielo? 
At Cielo we have 3 concepts - international breakfast, business-oriented lunch inclusive of semi-buffet and a la Carte and a fine dining concept for dinner. 
 
With my background and training, I will bring my talents to present an unique Michelin star dining experience featuring a combination of traditional flavours and innovative culinary techniques. For example, buffalo mozzarella is a simple dish of tomato, mozzarella and oil. I want to combine these elements together and convey sophistication in my modification - a tomato soup base with mozzarella and basil pesto, a twist to a simple recipe with simple ingredients. 
 
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Cielo Italian Restaurant
 
How do you intend to bring out the real Tuscan cuisine to Tianjin?
 
Tuscan cuisine is very similar to French cuisine. King Philip hailed from France, married Elizabeth, the Queen of Tuscany. The onion soup and squab (pigeon) are typical dishes of Tuscany. I have added my touch to better suit the Asian palate and so my squab dish entails foie gras seasoned with typical Chinese five spices.
 
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If a man chooses your restaurant to propose to his future wife, how will you make it memorable for the couple?
 
I will first speak with the guest to better understand his and his future wife’s preferences and dreams, as this is an important milestone in their new chapter of life.
 
I have handled occasions of this nature before and surprised them in many ways including the ring appearing through dishes. The element of surprise needs to be guarded.
 
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Homemade Tagliolino, Squid Ink, Lemon, Calamari, Sour Carrots Jus
 
Brunch is the norm now. What leisurely brunch offerings are regularly prepared at Cielo?
 
We have jazzed the monotonous Sunday brunch and created a friendlier concept especially for our customers. A combination of many Western foods including the French style eggs benedict, an American twist on the ‘stick with egg’, variations of pasta and so many more choices!
 
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Roasted Pigeon, Foie Gras, Mushrooms, Spinach
 
When creating a dish from scratch, what are the first things that come to your mind?
 
I go to a local market and have a look at the ingredients available to me during that season. This is an important attribute to consistently provide quality food. It is also vital to roam around the city and understand the local palate. Once I have understood these aspects of the locale, I will revolutionize a classical Italian dish using fresh techniques.
 
Is there any childhood recipe that inspired you in fashioning your own dish for the Cielo Italian Restaurant?
 
Yes! I have such vivid memories of nonna (grandma) cooking for me fragrant pizzaiola sauce after school. I decided to modernize this traditional tomato base sauce with the same flavours minus the sauce and incorporate it into a typical Italian risotto, which is my signature dish here at Cielo.  
 
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Seared Shabu Shabu Salmon, Fennel Salad, Crunchy Prosciutto
 
What do you consider as the major successes achieved by Cielo so far?
 
When we started off we only featured buffet at dinner considered local people's preference but now we have renovated the kitchen and integrated an chef's signature a la carte menu to refine and level up guest's dining experience. 
 
This has made Cielo the leading Italian restaurant in town as we only serve an authentic Italian cuisine and not an American-Italian style.

What are your most popular dishes?
 
As we are an Italian restaurant our most popular are the pasta dishes to mass market and signature dishes to guests with higher demand like Australian Wagyu Beef. My signature dish is risotto and can only be enjoyed here at Ciello. Pasta Bolognese is a common dish, yet guests adore it because we make fresh coratella pasta with beef ragout. My novelty on ravioli is handmade and served with lobster. I aim to deliver familiar dishes with superior quality and an innovative twist. 
 
We also feature an exquisite array of succulent meats all imported from Australia like one of my signature dish Australian Wagyu Beef. The meats are grilled on charcoal making them tender all the while retaining the smoky flavour.
 
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Seared Rougier Foie Gras, Coconut, Berries
 
How do your guests’ expectations towards food differ in China, as compared to Italy?
 
Italian style of eating is very different to the Chinese way. In Italy we like our pasta and risotto al dente (hard) but in China it is overcooked and slightly chewier. This would be a big ‘No!’ in Italy.
 
There are also many misconceptions concerning Italian dishes. For instance, the Caesar salad is not authentic to Italy but rather stemming from USA. Some people also believe that ravioli is a Chinese dumpling. 
 
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Who has been the most influential chef in your career?
 
All chefs influence me but there are two chefs in particular who have helped mold my career. One is Antonio Guida at Pellicano Hotel. He taught me the most valuable lesson I carry with me to date. "Iacopo, when you go home, you have not finished training. You need to continue to study throughout your career. Never stop because the kitchen will always evolve, and you need to grow to be at the very top of your game if you want to succeed.” 
 
Chef Giuseppe Mancino from Piccolo Principe has also shaped my career. He promoted me to sous chef. He pushed me to follow my imagination. He would say "Ok Iacopo, make this dish yourself. You can modify this recipe. You are a chef. You can create." 
 
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What do you do to unwind at the end of the day?
 
There was a time when I would head to the gym to wind down. Now I frequent a pub that’s in close proximity to the hotel. Other times I read culinary books, visit restaurants and roam about the city in search of inspiration. I believe that as a chef you will never have time off. You need to constantly explore and expand your boundaries. Tianjin’s ji膩nb菒ng is one of those findings that I have now included into the breakfast menu.
 
If you could cook for any famous personality, who would it be?
 
I have previously cooked for several celebrities including the President of the USA and two football stars Fabio Cannavaro and Pato.
 
If I could cook for anyone it would be Steven Spielberg. I respect his works especially Jurassic Park which is my favorite movie as I am fascinated by dinosaurs and even have one tattooed on my arm.
 
Are any exciting events in Cielo set to happen this year?
 
Yes, we have many events planned. This year Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year are celebrated in the same week. So, we opted for a romantic set dinner for couples and various a la carte choices for celebration. 
 
As Four Seasons Hotel Tianjin was the latest hotel launched in Asia from the group, we will host this March a conference for all personnel working for the F&B department of Four Seasons in the Asian region. 
 
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Risotto Alla Pizzaiola
 
What do you think is the driving force that any aspiring young chef could draw inspiration from?
 
Many people assume the chef’s profession as simple, but it is strenuous. My day at the kitchen starts at 6am and ends past 11pm. Although my days are long I don’t feel it because I am passionate about cooking. In my opinion you need to be enthusiastic about pottering around the kitchen and continuously strive to grow. In Italy we study and work simultaneously because it is imperative to put into practice what you learn. 
 
Is there anything you would like to add and share with our readers?
Yes, I want to invite your readers to the Four Seasons Hotel Tianjin to check out some of the new menu surprises at Cielo. So please do come and enjoy!
 
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