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With Passion and Patience, You Can Reach Your Goals

 

Interview with Chef Mauro Colagreco

Chef Owner of

2-stars Michelin Restaurant, Mirazur, France &

Head Chef of Azur, Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing

 

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       鍘诲勾7鏈堬紝鍖椾含棣欐牸閲岄キ搴楄崳鑰鎺ㄥ嚭AZUR鈥滆仛鈥濋鍘咃紝杩欏鍏ㄦ柊鐨勯珮绔硶椁愬巺鐢辩背鍏舵灄鏄熺骇澶у帹 Mauro Colagreco 涓荤悊锛屼负瀹惧甯︽潵娉曞浗鍗楅儴钄氳摑娴峰哺鐨勬瀹楀垱鎰忕編棣斻傛劅鍙楃伒鎰熻嚜鐢辫扛鍙戜笅锛岃癄閲婂懗閬撶鎾炵獊鏄剧殑鏈懗鐑瑰埗鐞嗗康銆侫ZUR 鎷涚墝鑿滃寘鎷細娉曞浗鍚夋媺澶氱敓铓濇惌閰嶅共钁卞ザ娌瑰強濞佸粔濮嗘ⅷ銆佹潵鑷.鏋楃殑鐑╄棞楹︽惌閰嶈槕鑿囷紝椹搩钖強娉曢娉℃搏銆侀《绾э紙9绾э級鍜岀墰鐗涙帓鎼厤鏃惰敩鍙婇粦鑺濋夯閰辨眮浠ュ強钘忕孩鑺卞ザ娌规厱鏂紝棣欐鍐伴湝鍙婃潖浠佹场娌瓑璇稿缇庡懗銆  閭d箞鍋氬嚭杩欎簺缁忓吀鑿滆偞鐨勪富鍘ㄧ┒绔熸槸浣曟柟绁炲湥鍛紵


      鎰忓ぇ鍒╄闃挎牴寤风睄澶у帹Mauro Colagreco鎴愰暱浜庝竴涓儹鐖辩編椋熺殑瀹跺涵锛屼粬鏃╁勾淇範杩囨枃瀛﹀拰缁忔祹瀛﹁绋嬶紝鍚庢潵鎰忚瘑鍒扮編椋熸槸浠栫儹鐖辩殑浜嬩笟銆侰olagreco 20宀佹椂鍦ㄩ樋鏍瑰环灞曞紑浜嗚嚜宸辩殑鍘ㄥ笀鐢熸动锛屽浜庡帹甯堣岃█锛岃繖骞朵笉绠楁棭銆備粬鏈鍒濆拰浣嶄簬闃挎牴寤烽閮藉竷瀹滆鏂壘鍒╂柉鐨勪竴浣嶅帹甯堟湅鍙嬩竴鍚屽伐浣滐紝鑰屽悗鍦ㄥ彟涓瀹堕鍘呭伐浣滐紝涓嶆柇缁冧範鑷繁瀛﹀埌鐨勭児楗妧宸с傚悗鏉ヤ负浜嗘彁鍗囪嚜宸辩殑缇庨鐑归オ姘村钩锛屼粬鍓嶅線娉曞浗锛屾帴鍙楀煿璁傚湪娓稿巻鍥涙柟銆佸皾閬嶅悇鍦颁紶缁熺編椋燂紝骞朵笌浼楀椁愰ギ澶у挅浠ュ強鍚嶅帹鍏变簨涔嬪悗锛屽崥閲囦紬闀跨殑浠栦簬2006骞村湪浣嶄簬鍗楁硶鐨勮姃閫氬紑璁句簡鑷繁鐨勯鍘呫傝繖瀹跺悕涓篗irazur鐨勯鍘呭紑涓氫粎10涓湀灏变负浠栬耽寰椾簡浜虹敓涓涓棰楃背鍏舵灄鏄燂紝椁愬巺杩樿幏閫変簡2016骞村叏鐞冪鍏悕鐨勯《绾ч鍘呫2009骞达紝Mirazur鏇存槸璺昏韩鏈夌潃椁愰ギ濂ユ柉鍗$編绉扮殑鈥滃湥浣╄幈鏍奸噷璇哄叏鐞50浣抽鍘呪濇鍗曘傚紑涓6骞村悗鐨2012骞达紝Mauro Colagreco澶у帹鍙堜竴涓惧皢绗簩鏋氱背鍏舵灄鏄熸敹鍏ュ泭涓 

      Colagreco鍏堢敓璇磋浠栧姝ょ儹鐖辩児楗殑鍔ㄥ姏鏉ユ簮浜庝粬瀵圭編椋熺殑鍠滅埍銆傗滄垜鍠滄鍚冧笢瑗库濓紝鑰屼笖缇庨鍙互璁╂棤璁烘槸浠涔堣韩浠藉湴浣嶈鑹茬殑浜洪兘淇濇湁鐑儏銆侫ZUR浜2016骞村湪鍖椾含寮涓氾紝娣卞彈鏈湴椋熷鐨勬杩庛侰olagreco鍏堢敓琛ㄧず浠栧笇鏈涘皢AZUR鍙戝睍鎴愪负鍖椾含鏈濂界殑瑗块鍘呬箣涓銆傛潵鑷.鏋楃殑鐑╄棞楹︽惌閰嶈槕鑿囥侀┈閾冭柉鍙婃硶棣欐场娌槸涓诲帹Colagreco鍏堢敓鐨勬帹鑽愯彍銆傝繖閬撹彍缁濆鏄彲浠ヨ瀹汉鎯呬笉鑷鎷垮嚭鎵嬫満鎷嶆憚涓嬭繖缇庡ソ鐢婚潰鐨勮彍鍝併 
 
      AZUR椁愬巺涓枃鍚嶇О鈥滆仛鈥濅富瑕佹簮浜庨鍘呯殑绫冲叾鏋楁槦绾т富鍘∕auro Colagreco鐨勯楗摬瀛︺侻auro璁や负锛氣滀竴椤块キ灏卞儚涓鍦鸿仛浼氭椿鍔紝鎴戜滑鍦ㄧ敤椁愭椂鍒嗕韩鐢熸椿銆佸垎浜涔愩佸垎浜編椋熲濄侻auro鍠勪簬閲囩敤杩旂挒褰掔湡鐨勫垱浣滄墜娉曞畬缇庤〃杈炬潵鑷硶鍥藉崡閮ㄨ彍鑲存渶涓虹函绮圭殑鑹查鍛炽傚搧灏濈潃浠栫殑鑿滃搧锛屽氨濡傚悓缁嗙粏鍥炲懗涓庢湅鍙嬬浉鑱氱殑蹇箰鏃跺厜锛屽張褰蜂經鍦ㄦ捣杈瑰害鍋囩殑鎯剰閲屾參鎱㈡矇閱夈傚湪杩欓噷锛岀敤鑸屽皷鎰熷彈浼犵粺涓庣幇浠g編鍛崇殑缁濆浜よ瀺锛屽湪鐑儏娲嬫孩鐨勬湇鍔″強绮惧績鐑瑰埗鐨勮彍鍝佺殑寮曢涓嬶紝寮鍚叏鏂扮殑缇庨涔嬫梾銆
 
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Among the world鈥檚 greatest chefs is Chef Mauro Colagreco. His passion for finding the freshest delicacy and expertly delivering a divine contrast of textures and flavours continues to capture the culinary experience for guests of Azur at Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing. In 2006, he established Mirazur, earning his first Michelin star within a year followed by a second in 2012. Among the World鈥檚 50 Best Restaurants 2017, Mirazur is ranked at fourth place. Inspired by his sense of discovery, Chef Colagreco masterfully fuses culinary traditions in Europe and Asia into a dish worthy of being praised. Here he shares his journey, his sources of inspiration and his exciting plans for Azur.
 
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Can you elaborate a bit on how you first started?
I started in Argentina at the age of 20 years. For a chef, it is not considered as early. 
 
I started working in a restaurant and practiced what I learned in a culinary school. The owner of the restaurant told me that if I really wanted to learn, I had to go to Europe. So I left for France and I was lucky to be trained by Bernard Loiseau. But my interest in cooking is also influenced by my family. My grandmother cooked extremely well.  
 
 
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Mushroom veloute with slow cooked organic egg
 
How was it like for you to establish the world-renowned 2-star Mirazur restaurant? 
I arrived in France in 2000, and had the chance to work with three of the most famous and interesting chefs in France, one of whom was Bernard Loiseau. While I was there I also worked with Alain Passard at L'Arp猫ge and Alain Ducasse at H么tel Plaza Ath茅n茅e. 
We opened in April 2006 and the Michelin star came in Feb 2007, nine months later. I was awarded 鈥楻evelation of the Year鈥 by the Gault Millau guide in October 2006.
 
Between France and Italy which has two culinary cultures, I was free to be myself and people came to the restaurant to find Mediterranean cuisine with a totally different approach. That was how I earned the first Michelin star.
 
The second one was really something that we worked and pushed towards.  It came five years after the first one. 
 
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Wagyu tenderloin marble 7-8 with braised sweet potato and baby onions, black truffle
 
Describe the pleasure and pressure  to maintain standards of a recognized top-4 restaurant in the world?
It is a very high-pressure job. I still remember that time when we got the 2nd Michelin star.  When they sent the fax announcing all the Michelin-starred restaurants, the phone started ringing. I took the phone and it was Monsieur Lucas who said, 鈥淐ongratulations, finally, but now you have to work.鈥 And he was right. A chef is something you need to be every day.
 
You make a beautiful masterpiece every day. With the star came a lot more expectations. 
 
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Oven baked celery root with black winter truffle and parmesan sauce
 
Tell us what keeps you so passionate about cooking.
One of things that made me love cooking was my love for eating and taking pleasure for food. 
I come from a family where good and bad moments are shared at the table and I have grown with this kind of culture. When you are a chef, you get to have a very nice personal relationship with the guy who supplies your carrots or the fishermen who deliver your fish because you both have same passion. And when you go into the restaurant, you have the same relationship with your guests. 

Which images come to your mind whenever you think of a new recipe?
First are my most beautiful memories. When you think about something from the past, even a flavour, then it transports you to the past. You are in this place and you love it. While I find it overwhelming as an inspiration, it doesn鈥檛 come to me every time. But it helps create the most emotional dish.
Next are the trips that I undertake to experience different cultures. I explore and eat in the street, go to the market and there I get a huge inspiration because I discover things like a child.
 
Third source of inspiration is the quality of produce that I use. I have two gardens, one in Mirazur and one in my house. I get to see the whole process that each ingredient undergoes and I am able to harvest it at the right moment and for the right recipe. This gives me a lot of inspiration to work on.   
 
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Is there a particular restaurant, chef or cuisine that inspires you?
Everywhere you have good chefs, and some of them are really creative and energetic. One of them was Chef Ferran Adri脿 the head chef of El Bulli. His creations and new ways really opened the eyes of the world. Another is my master, three-star chef Alain Passard who stopped totally the cooking of meats during the Mad Cow disease. He achieved his 3 Michelin stars for being an expert in rotisserie. But when he couldn鈥檛 cook meat, he used vegetables, duck, etc. and I was there during those moments. 
 
What is it that you envision for Azur and how is it being experienced by your guests? 
We want to be one of the best western restaurants in Beijing and in China. We are one of the best here, and I鈥檇 like to think that we are one of the best in China. We really want to focus on the quality of ingredients. 
 
We started to work with an organic farmer from whom we buy all the best vegetables. His farm is extremely organic. I visited his farm and it is huge and beautiful. 
 
What do you consider as the major successes achieved by Azur so far?
We opened in 2016 and we were warmly accepted by guests who are 95% local Chinese. We have a high number of regulars who come back each week which is a great achievement for a western restaurant. We would love to have a Michelin star here in Azur.
 
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What are Azur鈥檚 most popular dishes and what makes them so enticing?
One of our signature dishes is 鈥淭he Forest鈥 which is plated over stone. It is a dish which we created in Mirazur using quinoa risotto, wild mushrooms, parsley sponge cake and potatoes. Our guests love the flavours and textures it offers. 
What is your most adventurous/innovative dish?
I think one of the most adventurous dishes was oyster that we created in Mirazur, the oyster with pear both in juice and solid forms which had a very nice pairing. It is one of the most popular dishes which we serve. 

What ingredients do you love to experiment on for Azur?
Azur is a very seasonal restaurant, so ingredients depend on the period of the year. During autumn, we take wild mushrooms from Yunnan. Then in summertime, we use tomatoes. The seeds were brought from the farm in Mirazur which grows for us different varieties of tomatoes with different colours and all of them are very tasty.
 
 
How do you incorporate oriental preferences and attitude towards food into Azur鈥檚 dining experience? 
When we open a restaurant, we open it for the guests. Even if we keep our style, we make sure that the experience would be nice for our guests. We put up dishes that are for sharing, we also make something that is familiar to them yet different in texture. 
 
In Azur we work a lot with textures. We also make more consomm茅s and we also have more seafood dishes.

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What for you is the best part of your job?
The best part of my job is whenever I cook. I forget everything when I am there with my fish, my vegetables and meats. If I go out of the kitchen and meet my guests, I feel their happiness and it makes me feel satisfied. Our job is to make others happy and that is really important. 

On days that you are too tired to cook, what do you like to eat?
I鈥檓 passionate about food but when I am home, it is my wife who cooks for me. Sometimes, I just get tomatoes from the garden, olive oil, salt and that is it. I like to keep it simple and easy and I try to clear my mind, my palate and my body.
 
Aside from Mirazur, what are your other favorite Michelin restaurants?
I love El Bulli in Spain, but now it is closed. I love Mugaritz as well in Spain.  Chef鈥檚 Table at Brooklyn Fair in New York was my best dinner this year, and also l鈥橝strance in Paris, a 3-star Michelin.
 
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Are there any exciting events in Azur that are set to happen over the next year?
For Azur, we are starting to invite guest chefs from France. They are the ones whom I trained in my restaurant and now they are chefs in other Michelin restaurants in Europe or Asia. We start this year, then another one by the end of November. Next year, we will be inviting more Michelin star guest chefs in Azur.
 
Given the food trends that are emerging, how do you incorporate this into your menu?
I think the new food trends reflect really on culture or a particular moment.  Today, people want to go back to the past a little bit. The trend is to have a garden home, which was considered extremely normal in the past. Because of this, we focus more on the quality of the product than on techniques and go back to the basics. 

Is there any advice that you would like to give to young chefs or entrepreneurs on being successful?
I think the most important is to remain focused on your idea, even if it is hard. If you make something with passion and have the capacity to be patient, you will reach your goals. 
 
If you were an artist, which artist you would like to be?
I love Van Gogh, but I would relate more to Dali or Picasso.
 
Who do you want to be 10 years later? 
I would like to be a good father. I may be recognized as a chef, but I also have a family and a team whom it is important to look after.   
 
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